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वाराणसीvārāṇasī · also kāśī, the shining one

Varanasi for yogis, the city of light

Updated October 16, 2026 · sources checked October 17, 2026

In short

Varanasi, also called Kashi or Banaras, is one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism, on the Ganga in Uttar Pradesh. Practitioners come for its 88 ghats, the Ganga aarti held every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, the sunrise gathering of yoga and music at Assi Ghat, and Sarnath, 10 km away, where the Buddha first taught. October to March is the most pleasant season.

Why come here for yoga

Varanasi (वाराणसी, vārāṇasī) has three names and one river. Kashi (काशी, kāśī) comes from the Sanskrit root kāś, "to shine": the Ministry of Tourism calls it the City of Light, believed to have been founded by Śiva himself and counted among Hinduism's seven sacred cities. Banaras is the name of its lanes, its silk and its music. For centuries it has drawn saints, poets and philosophers: Kabir, Ravidas and Tulsidas, who wrote the Rāmcaritmānas here, and generations of scholars (Incredible India).

There is no single yoga institution that defines Varanasi the way Krishnamacharya's legacy defines Mysore. What it offers a practitioner is the setting yoga was born in: daily worship on the river, the study of Sanskrit, and life and death side by side on the same steps. It is also a city of learning: Banaras Hindu University, founded in 1916 with Madan Mohan Malaviya among its founders (Wikipedia), and Sampurnanand Sanskrit University. Krishnamacharya himself studied in Varanasi, and it was there, in 1926, that the Maharaja of Mysore met him (Wikipedia, Krishnamacharya).

The gentlest door in for a yoga traveller is Subah-e-Banaras at Assi Ghat, a sunrise gathering of yoga, music and devotion described by Incredible India.

Sacred places

  • The ghats: the district counts 88 ghats, steps going down to the Ganga; most are for bathing and puja, while two are used exclusively for cremation. Most were rebuilt after 1700 under Maratha patrons, and a morning boat ride along them is the classic way to see them (district of Varanasi).
  • Dashashwamedh Ghat, renowned for the Ganga aarti held every evening (Incredible India). Lamps, conches and chanting, thousands of people on the steps and on the boats.
  • Manikarnika Ghat, one of Hinduism's holiest cremation grounds, the mahāśmaśāna of Kashi. Read the etiquette section below before going.
  • Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Śiva as Vishwanath, "ruler of the universe", one of the twelve jyotirliṅga (district site). Its trust's website names five daily aartis, including the Mangala aarti before dawn and the Sandhya aarti at dusk, offers online booking of some darshan services, and announced special booking for Shravan, from 29 July to 29 August 2026.
  • Sarnath, about 10 km north-east: the deer park where the Buddha first taught the Dhamma and where the Sangha came into being (district site). Its stupas, monasteries and museum are a quiet contrast to the ghats.
  • Dev Deepawali, fifteen days after Diwali, when thousands of lamps light the ghats (Incredible India): magnificent, and the most crowded nights of the year.

When to go

Varanasi has a humid subtropical climate. The dry summer runs from April to June, with temperatures up to 46 °C; the monsoon lasts from July to October; from December to February, cold waves can push nights below 5 °C, and fog is common (Wikipedia, Varanasi). Incredible India gives October to March as the most pleasant time, with winter mornings often wrapped in mist over the river. Bring warm layers for dawn boat rides in December and January.

Getting there

  • By air: Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport at Babatpur, about 25 km from the city according to Incredible India (22 km on the district site), with domestic flights and some international ones. A prepaid taxi service operates at the airport (district site).
  • By rail: Varanasi Junction, Banaras, Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction and Kashi stations; direct trains to New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and other cities.
  • In the old city: one-way traffic, and autos and cars are not allowed on some routes near the temples (district site): walk, or take a cycle-rickshaw or e-rickshaw.

Check the official e-Visa rules before booking a course here.

Budget

The aarti is free to watch from the ghats; boat owners charge for a place on the water, so agree the price and duration before stepping in. On 16 October 2026, the district site gave a range of Rs 1,400 to 2,200 for an 8-hour hire of a car or taxi (a "four-wheeler", within a kilometre limit); for anything else, ask in writing. Temple donations are voluntary: pay only at official counters.

Etiquette

  • Near the cremation ghats: silence, distance and no photographs. These are funerals, not a spectacle. Decline anyone who offers to "guide" you through the pyres, or asks money "for the wood of the poor"; if you wish to give, give to an institution that issues receipts.
  • Dress modestly; remove shoes where asked; follow the security rules at the entrance of Kashi Vishwanath; the trust offers a locker with some of its darshan services.
  • On the ghats, step around people performing rites; never sit with your feet towards a shrine or an elder.
  • Ask before photographing sadhus or bathers; some will ask for money, which is their right.

Health and safety

  • France Diplomatie warns of very frequent thefts on the Varanasi–Delhi and Kolkata–Varanasi rail lines, and the FCDO advises care with belongings on trains: keep valuables on you in sleeper class.
  • Do not swim in the Ganga: the FCDO warns of strong currents in rivers and drownings every year.
  • Be wary of drinks and food from strangers; the FCDO reports cases of spiked drinks.
  • Emergency number: 112. See a travel health professional before leaving.

Choosing a retreat or a training here

Yoga courses in Varanasi are mostly small: classes on a guesthouse roof, Sanskrit lessons, music. Ask who teaches, in which tradition, how many hours a day, whether the course issues a certificate and who recognises it. Compare with what Yoga Alliance does and does not certify, and read our page on the 200-hour teacher training. For a long stay in an ashram by the Ganga, Rishikesh and Haridwar are the classic alternatives.

Questions people ask

Where is the evening Ganga aarti in Varanasi?

The best-known one is held every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, according to the Ministry of Tourism's Incredible India site. Times follow the sunset: arrive well before dusk, or watch from a boat.

Can I take photos at Manikarnika Ghat?

It is one of Hinduism's holiest cremation grounds and families are mourning there. We advise against photographing the pyres or the mourners at all; observe from a distance, in silence, and refuse anyone who offers a paid 'tour' of the cremations.

How far is Sarnath from Varanasi?

About 10 km north-east, according to the district's official site, and about 30 km from the airport at Babatpur. Sarnath has its own small railway station.

When is the best weather in Varanasi?

Incredible India gives October to March as the most pleasant time. Winter mornings are often foggy, nights can be cold, and the dry heat from April to June is severe.

Sources

  1. Varanasi — Incredible India, Ministry of Tourism, Government of India (official site) checked October 16, 2026
  2. Ganga Ghat — District Varanasi, Government of Uttar Pradesh (official site) checked October 16, 2026
  3. Sarnath — District Varanasi, Government of Uttar Pradesh (official site) checked October 16, 2026
  4. How to Reach — District Varanasi, Government of Uttar Pradesh (official site) checked October 16, 2026
  5. Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple Trust (official site) checked October 16, 2026
  6. Varanasi — Wikipedia (climate, Manikarnika Ghat) checked October 16, 2026
  7. Banaras Hindu University — Wikipedia (founded 1916) checked October 16, 2026
  8. Tirumalai Krishnamacharya — Wikipedia (studies in Banaras; met the Maharaja of Mysore in Varanasi in 1926) checked October 17, 2026
  9. Inde — Conseils aux voyageurs, sécurité, France Diplomatie (updated 5 October 2026) checked October 16, 2026
  10. India travel advice: safety and security — UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office checked October 16, 2026

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